Showing posts with label people. Show all posts
Showing posts with label people. Show all posts

Saturday, June 19, 2010

As we begin the journey home...

We asked the group to reflect on the most memorable moments of this Kenya 2010 tour (in Mandarin, Cantonese, English ... and even bits of Hokkien).



Before we sign off, we should say a very big thank you again to Connie, without whom this trip would not have been possible! 

Last day: Nairobi


Our last day took us to Nairobi, the dynamic capital of Kenya and far more developed that anything we had seen in Tanzania. Not to say that Nairobi is free of problems – our guides pointed out a huge slum where corrugated iron shacks are home to over a million people, most of whom work for US$2 a day or less. 

Downtown Nairobi is certainly thriving (traffic is terrible), and our tour passed several impressive buildings, from colonial halls and churches to glitzy modern skyscrapers. 

Lunch was at the touristy but fun Carnivore Restaurant, where the menu consists almost exclusively of roasted meats (it’s a bit like a Brazilian churrascaria, with huge fire pit and meat on stakes at the front of the restaurant). 
It used to be famous for game meat, but these days hunting is banned in Kenya, and the only exotic items were farmed ostrich and crocodile meat. The group seemed to like the ribs and chicken livers best! 

Our final hours in Kenya were spent – where else – at the shopping mall. Everyone loaded up with Blue Mountain Coffee, Kenyan tea, local nuts and other souvenirs.

Our guides

Our expert guides studied at Utalii College, a government-owned hotel and tourism training institution in Nairobi.


Sammy Mwagodi
Age: 44
Email: samwagodi@yahoo.com
Sammy comes from Kenya’s Coastal Province, and is a member of the Taita tribe. His mother language is Ketaita (or ‘Kidawida’), but he also speaks Swahili and English fluently. He currently lives in Nairobi with his wife, two boys (17 and 10) and daughter (19). Sammy’s expert knowledge (and great sense of humour!) have been honed during his 18 years working as a guide.
 
David Agisu
Age: 34
Email: davieagisu@yahoo.com
David hails from Nyanza Province near Lake Victoria, which is also the ancestral home of the Obama family (!) He is a member of the Luhya tribe, though his mother comes from the neighbouring Luo, but like Sammy also speaks Swahili and English fluently. David is married with two children; a boy (7) and girl (4). He is an avid football fan and supports Arsenal in England and the AFC Leopards in Kenya (in 2009 the team won the Kenya Cup). David has been a guide for 10 years. He never seemed to stop smiling, no matter what!

Jacob Ojoo
Age: 30
Email: ojooabonyo@gmail.com
Jacob was our WildTrek liason in Nairobi, meeting us on arrival and also spending the last day with us. Like David, Jacob hails from Nyanza Province and lives in Nairobi. He’s not yet married, and has been a hospitality & travel consultant since 2006.
Photo - From left: David, Sammy and Jacob

Stephen and Tiffany especially thank Jacob for the upgrade at the Mount Kenya Safari Club!

Friday, June 18, 2010

Mount Kenya National Park

Our final park isn’t known for wildlife, though we still spotted plenty of warthogs and giant marabou storks.

The Mount Kenya National Park covers the slopes of Kenya’s highest mountain, which like Kilimanjaro, is usually topped in a layer of snow. Sadly, we didn’t get to climb it, though we did see it briefly, and Connie seemed keen for a hike (it takes 4 days!).

Instead, we stayed on the western slopes at the super-deluxe Mount Kenya Safari Club, a posh colonial pile that was associated with Hollywood stars in the 1950s and 1960s – William Holden was long-time president of the club.

The rooms in the main block and the larger chalets all overlook the mountain, and are surrounded by lush grounds that attract large stork, ducks and geese.

The restaurant was elegant, the food delicious; it seemed like we were sharing the whole place with just a handful of tourists and there were plenty of activities (including a maze), so no surprise that we decided to spend most of the day right here.



Equidistant from the North and South Poles

We crossed the equator several times on this trip, and finally made a brief stop to take some pictures and listen to a demonstration on magnetic fields. 

See video below (with translation by Connie).

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Aberdare National Park



Our third national park encompasses the Aberdare Mountains, home to the Kikuyu tribe and named in 1884 by explorer Joseph Thomson in honour of the president of the Royal Geographical Society. 

It was made into a park in 1950, and Elizabeth II famously became Queen here in 1952 (her father died while she was staying at Treetops Hotel). In the 1960s many Mau Mau rebels had hideouts here, but today the only danger is posed by the odd leopard (sadly, we didn’t see one!). 


On the way to the park, we stopped at Thomson Falls near Nyahururu, a famous  training hub for Kenya's champion long-distance runners. Samuel WanjirÅ­, the first Kenyan to win the marathon at the Olympics, calls Nyahururu home. Along the way, we saw a few atheletes training along the road.

The Aberdare National Park is home to 250 types of bird and 44 different mammals, from elephants to striped mice, but lions are no longer among them – they were relocated after concerns they were killing too many animals, especially the rare Bongo antelope

Black rhinos are also endangered here; thanks to illegal poaching - their numbers have declined from 450 in the 1970s to just 20 today (we didn’t see one of those either). The park is now surrounded by a 400km high-voltage fence to keep out the poachers.

Access to the park is strictly controlled via just two unique lodges, Treetops and our hotel, the Ark. To get to the Ark you start at the Aberdare Country Club, an English-style stone complex built in the 1920s, where we had lunch.



Most of the park is over 7000 feet up, and when we visited it was chilly, misty and damp – but very atmospheric!


Our safari buses


Our two Wild Trek Safaris tour vehicles might look like normal minibuses, but they seem to be able to withstand an incredible amount of punishment every day; pot-holes, rutted mud tracks and off-road game drives must take a huge toll on those tires and suspension! 


Each bus can take seven passengers comfortably, and each had a retractable roof for game drives.


Here are more shots:


 
 

And a video of the ladies singing on the bus!

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Lake Nakuru National Park


On the third day of your Kenya tour, we went to Lake Nakuru, a saltwater lake that is only four feet deep. 

Nothing lives or grows in the water here, but the national park is most famous for two creatures: flamingos and the rhinos that graze in the marshy land nearby. 

The forest and grassy scrub that surround the lake also harbour all sorts of birds and one very unwelcome creature – huge and voracious mosquitoes that were specially bred to eat the smaller malaria-carrying mozzis! 

(Connie can finally put to good use the mosquito net her friend gave her!)


The grazing animals here seemed less skittish than in the Masai Mara, so we were able to get quite close; plenty of cape buffalo, zebra, impala, and baboons. 
We also came across five small fox cubs, that scampered away when they saw us (we couldn’t see their mum).





Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Making fire with sticks and elephant dung


A Masai man shows us how they make fire from sticks and elephant dung.

Morning with the Masai


Visiting this Masai village was a real eye-opener, especially as we were basically cocooned within luxury resorts most of the trip.The Masai seem very friendly (and very tall!), being the only tribe to cling to a traditional lifestyle in Kenya.

They are nomadic (though in practice tend to move the village every three years or so), practice polygamy (each wife is bought with 10 cows), wear traditional clothing and are very poor (materially).

The village is essentially a circle of mud huts with cows and sheep in the middle. As result, it is ankle deep in dung – stepping in some was ‘lucky’ according to the locals.

You’d think visiting them would be a touch uncomfortable, but it wasn’t. A US$20 fee per person is paid to the tribe directly; there’s no middle man and the money is used to educate the children. 'Tours’ are informal affairs given by the sons of the chief who speak excellent English, Swahili and their own Masai tongue.

We were shown the extremely dark and cramped interior of one of the huts, how the Masai make fire from pieces of wood, and some of the beadwork made by the women. 

The Masai are famed hunters and our guide admitted to having killed a lion – a big honour. Lions are the traditional enemy of the Masai, who raise cow and sheep, but these days they are only allowed to kill lions (with spears!!) if it attacks their compound. One dead cow means two dead lions.

The Masai have become so good at killing lions, it is said that if a lion sees anyone dressed in Masai clothes, it just runs away!

Of course, dancing and singing Masai songs was also on the menu – we all ended up joining in, some more than others!


The Great Rift Valley

The Great Rift Valley runs 6,000 km from Jordan across Africa to Mozambique. Named by late 19th century British explorer John Walter Gregory, it was created about 20 million years ago when the earth's crust tore apart and the land on either side formed great volcanic mountains, while the valley floor sank into a low flat plain. The rift valley divides Kenya east from west, and we passed some great view points going to and from Masai Mara.


Five minutes in Tanzania

Just beyond our stop on the Mara River, a dirt track leads through the bushes to a stone monument marking the boundary between Kenya and Tanzania. Here the Masai Mara blends into Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park and there is no fence or official border crossing – animals don’t have passports

We took the obligatory group photo and, after a few minutes, we sneaked back into Kenya.

Mischievous monkeys

Most safaris stop for a picnic lunch near the Mara River, and the local residents always come out to play; vervet monkeys

Over the years they’ve learnt that if they see humans here, food is close behind; the cheeky, nimble little pests have become skilled at creeping up behind an unsuspecting picnicker, and grabbing their lunch. 

Oranges and bananas seem the favourite snacks (they don’t eat meat), and the monkeys can be quite brazen – Carrie’s picnic box was marauded by a particularly audacious monkey, who snatched an orange virtually out of her hands! 

Luckily, brandishing a long stick in their direction usually is enough to keep these cheeky monkeys at bay.


Monday, June 14, 2010

Masai Mara

Our first destination in Kenya was the Masai Mara National Park, a vast expanse of rolling hills and grasslands studded with the iconic balanite trees – the African savannah. 

The plains seems to go for hundreds of miles in every direction; there are no settlements, no surfaced roads (just mud and gravel tracks) and no services of any kind, a true wilderness area bursting with wildlife at every corner. 

Only safari minibuses disturb the peace, but people are not allowed to leave their vehicles and the animals just seem to ignore them!

Saturday, June 12, 2010

A boat for six million shillings

Nungwi is one of those unfortunate villages that happens to be squashed between two beach resorts (oddly enough, these resorts seem to cater to mainly Italian tourists. As is often the case, the village has remained poor and largely segregated from the beach areas - very few locals are hired to work in the hotels and they make their living from traditional trades.

We were lucky enough to get a tour of the village from one of the locals – he was our guide to Nungwi's turtle aquarium even showed us his own home and family (his wife was busy applying henna to her hands and feet for decoration). 

The villagers were a friendly and happy bunch, though they were obviously quite poor; there are no tarred roads, just muddy tracks, and the houses are small, simple affairs made of coral bricks or breeze blocks with corrugated iron roofs. Plenty of chickens shuffle around in the garbage behind the houses and there are lots of flies.

They have electricity but not running water – water comes through standpipes in the street, but the supply is erratic. When the water is on, women carrying multiple buckets line up to get as much as they can. It’s amazing they look so good – all the women (this is a Muslim village) wear bright, vivid dresses and headscarves from puberty, and only the (very cute) younger kids run around in basic gear. 

The village keeps busy: Nungwi is known for its shipbuilders, who hammer and carve wood around the clock making dhows (traditional fishing boats). They cost 6 million shillings (US$5000) and take 40 days to build! 

Fishermen sell their catch at the fish market, often just a simple gathering under a tree where piles of sardines, trumpet fish and dorado are auctioned off to the highest bidders. 

The only other stalls we saw sold greenish oranges (very sweet!), cassava and roast corn on the cob, as well as small amounts of tamarind, wild garlic and ginger.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Corruption!

On our way to the beautiful east coast of Zanzibar, our driver had to stop at least five times at police checkpoints. Sometimes the police, dressed in pristine white uniforms, would just saunter out of the bushes and wave the car over; other times they had metal barrels barring the route. These are supposedly to check car insurance, road worthiness etc, but all that actually happens, after a few sentences are exchanged, is that the police get a couple thousand shillings 'fee' to let the car pass. Our driver seemed to be pretty resigned to it and just laughed: "This is Africa my friend!"