Streets of Dar Es Salaam

Today we briefly wandered the streets of Tanzania’s biggest city. Dar Es Salaam is a surprisingly likeable place, despite the heavy traffic, heat and obvious signs of poverty; mechanics fix bikes on the sidewalk, women stroll around with fruit, eggs and all sorts of fragile foods balanced on their heads, and Indian traders do deals in Swahili on every corner. With those ubiquitous mobile phone stores (and ads), SUVs and construction on every stretch, it’s more developing nation than the stereotype of poverty-stricken, hapless Africa so often portrayed on TV. Still, sad to see so many young men hanging around on the street, apparently with nothing to do, the legless, ragged beggars and plenty of hustlers selling newspapers, water, sweets – anything – for a few cents.

We had lunch in an excellent local place, half buffet canteen, half café called Chef's Pride. Inside it was a bit dark but cool and fairly relaxed – plenty of regulars were sipping their milky teas, chomping down toast and reading the newspapers. We opted for the coconut chicken, which was yum, and a beef plate that comes with hunks of what’s probably buffalo in garlic sauce – also quite yum. Both served with tasty, thick fried chipatis, perfect for soaking up that coconut sauce.

National Museum - Tanzania’s dusty old museum is getting a multi-million dollar revamp – our taxi went in the wrong way at first, and we spied what seemed to be a mainland Chinese foremen, overseeing the work – Fujian Construction was the contractor! He looked hopefully at Tiffany, but we drove off before she could offer any Putonghua greeting (he didn’t speak English – maybe he spoke Swahili??)

We were the only visitors to the museum, though the guard seemed very proud of it, and was keen that we see every single section. To be honest, until the new section opens, it’s not up to much and best known for Zinj -- the remains of one of earliest humans ever found, actually a human-like creature that lived 1.75 million years ago. It was chilling to look at the skull, though we have no idea if it was the real one or just a copy.